Wednesday, August 31, 2005

Day 65 – Distance: 41.21 km
Woodstock to Pokiok, NB

A dismal day – I had to “abort” early due to rain. We had heard the weather forecast, and knew hurricane Katrina might be affecting the area. However, the morning didn’t look too bad when I left; it was drizzling, but biking was doable. I had all my rain gear on, including my booties, but was soon drenched. I stopped at an Irving gas station (I love those – people are friendly and the washrooms really are clean) to confirm directions; I had a hot chocolate, and then kept going. Soon I was climbing a major hill (Rogers Pass has nothing on New Brunswick hills) to get onto Hwy 2, my first foray onto the “big highway”. Actually, it was great, other than the rain; the hills are a much more gradual slope, and the one downhill I had was faster than anything else I had encountered today.

By 11:30 I reached the turnoff for Hwy 105 again, so I stopped for a break. Very quickly it started raining quite hard, so I thought perhaps a bowl of soup was in order while I waited for it to stop. By noon, and after getting a weather forecast from Albert via cell phone, I called Cam. He had done all his errands, and was willing to pick me up, or take down the camper first, then come. I said I didn’t mind waiting the two hours he estimated it would take (although it might have made more sense to stay in Woodstock one more night so he didn’t have to take the camper down), so that was it. The poor man took down the camper in pouring rain (our beds got a bit wet in the process), while I ate chocolate cream pie and chatted up the truck driver next to me. Around 1:45 p.m., I was looking out and admiring the neat packing job someone had done of the trailer behind a truck that was filling up with gas (at $1.19/litre), when I saw, and recognized, the owner. I just about flipped when his wife got out of the car as well – it was Jane and Allan Watanabe! I ran out and we hugged and almost cried – I had wanted to stop at their place on our way out, but hadn’t got myself organized enough to get their address or phone number, and it somehow didn’t work out. They stayed at the restaurant for lunch, and waited with me for Cam. He was just as surprised as I had been to see them. They were on their way to Halifax to deliver their daughter’s earthly belongings to her new apartment; she’ll be going to Dalhousie to study marine biology this year.

Eventually, Cam and I drove to Fredericton to the campsite, (via Hwy 105 which I had intended to bike along, but decided against after driving it) where we put up the camper, and will stay for two nights while I make up the lost mileage (hopefully tomorrow, if the weather cooperates). I was disappointed in not being able to get the camper to Grand Barachois (Monique’s village) by Thursday night, but I guess one can’t change the weather. I’m at least getting a bit of laundry done; it will be a treat to get into dry clothes tomorrow. Everything has been so damp lately! Here’s hoping Katrina will be finished through the night, and that tomorrow will be nice again.

Tuesday, August 30, 2005

Day 64 – Distance: 126.85 km
Grand Falls to Woodstock, NB

“By the time I got to Woodstock” I was not half a million strong, I was “just me”, and I was exhausted! I was at approximately 100 km at Hartland, and dropped into the visitor information centre to check whether I should continue on my route 105, which had been quite hilly up to Beechwood, but not too bad after that, or cross the bridge and take Hwy 103. The two ladies inside said Hwy 103 was a bit more hilly, but there was some construction on Hwy 105, so they would recommend 103. Well, I took their advice, and crossed the covered bridge at Hartland (fun), only to be faced with the biggest hill you’d ever want to see. I managed the first 20 feet or so, then walked the rest of the way. Well, I have to tell you, Hwy 103 would make a great training route for Lance Armstrong – but it certainly did not suit me when I was already tired. To make matters worse, I could see Hwy 105 from the tops of the hills I had to climb, and it was generally quite flat and close to the St. John River at that point. I was shaking by the time I reached the campground, and phoned the information centre to let them know their information was terrible! When I phoned Monique later, she laughed and reminded me of our rule “always ask at least 3 people before taking advice on routes”.

The rest of the day was fine, scenery wise, but as I mentioned, there were lots of hills. The road reminded me of the one in BC from Spences Bridge to Merritt; I was following the river, but not the river bed! I had some rain, off and on during the day, and when I was in flat sections close to the river, I had wind as well. I was okay with all, because I knew I had to pay my dues sometimes. However, I certainly didn’t think it fair to have to end the day the way I did (to be fair, the views were lovely, and for a Saturday morning training ride, it would have been great). We’re in the Yogi Bear and Jellystone Park campground in Woodstock, and have just finished a good supper, so I imagine I’ll revive. Forecasts for the next few days are for rain; I hope it’s not going to be too bad, because I really want to get to Shediac soon!

Monday, August 29, 2005

Day 63 – Distance: 112.01
Notre-Dame-du-Lac, QC to Grand Falls, NB

Yep, I made it through another province – and St. James and the Cellar Singers will be a bit richer for it (Pat Hehn is sponsoring me by the province – is anyone else?). I’m sitting in the camper, appreciating it all the more because it’s raining out, and I can be inside sipping a glass of wine while I’m typing. Life is good indeed (except for these mosquitoes which found their way in before I shut the door). Cam has just gone out to pick up a few groceries, but I was just as happy staying in. My cell service is not working again (Rogers – you stink), but fortunately Cam’s phone (actually Patti and Peter’s phone; they loaned it to Cam for the trip) is with Bell, so it works.

I left Notre-Dame-du-Lac this morning around 8:00 a.m., but Cam reminded me that it was really 9:00 by New Brunswick time. We had set a fairly short day, keeping in mind the time change, and the fact that I was still a bit tired from pushing it yesterday. I stuck to the trail until St. Joseph de Madawaska, where I saw a sign on the road next to me saying it was Hwy 144 east. Since that was the highway I was going to be looking for in Edmunsten, it made a lot of sense to me to take it right away. After all, the trail was meant to be a tool, not a sentence! And as a reward for making that decision, I found a Tim Hortons right away. Hwy 144 was good; shoulders most of the way, and light traffic. The wind was a bit of a problem, but again, since I wasn’t planning to go too far, I didn’t worry. Tomorrow I’m hoping to get to Woodstock – someone should write a song…

Sunday, August 28, 2005

Day 62 – Distance: 150.37 km
Riviere Ouelle to Notre-Dame-du-Lac, QC

Another fine day, starting off with another one of Cam’s fine breakfasts. I left the campsite about 8:20, and phoned Joan about 20 minutes later to see how the wedding had gone. Fortunately, the weather evidently held until the ceremony and photos were finished, and any problems were minor ones, so everyone was happy.

The wind was in my back for the trip to Riviere du Loup, which was great, and I heard church bells pealing as I went along. I reached Riviere du Loup (65 km) by 11:30 a.m., and headed south for the information centre just down the street from Hwy 20 to ask about the TransCanada Trail I had heard about. As luck would have it, the city bike path leading to it started just two blocks away. I had to negotiate a very long hill to get to the actual Trail, and I took one wrong turn. Fortunately, a gentleman (cycling) helped me out, even though his French was difficult to understand. The trail is all hard-packed screenings, which are much slower to bike on than pavement. However, with the strong wind which would have been from the side, and knowing that Hwy 185 is quite hilly, I decided I would take the trail. It was nice to be back in nature; the trail reminded me of the Oro-Medonte trail from Orillia to Barrie. It had a gradual uphill slope for the first 50 km or so, so that I was only going about 15 – 20 kph, but the next 30 were easier. It was 84.7 km to Notre-Dame-du-Lac along the trail from Riviere du Loup, but this is a favourite place of mine, ever since Nory and I saw it from the highway when we drove to PEI a few years ago. Albert and I have stayed here twice, and we love the restaurant “La Dolce Vita”. Cam also enjoyed it when we went there for supper, so I was pleased.

Notes: I did have a bit of rain in the afternoon, but nothing too bad. I saw two beautiful great blue herons lazily taking off from one of the ponds, and a pileated woodpecker flew along the trail in front of me. I laughed at myself; when I’m biking through the beautiful villages, I like those best, but once I’m back on nature trails, I like those. I guess I’m kind of fickle…

Saturday, August 27, 2005

Day 61 – Distance: 147.07 km
Quebec City to Riviere Ouelle, QC

I didn’t sleep too well, partly due to too much coffee the night before, and partly because I was fretting about finding my way from the campsite onto Hwy 132. I should have asked the day before at the camp office, but you know what they say about hindsight.

In any event, I was up before 6:30, and had one of my typical breakfasts of instant porridge (only this time I could enjoy toast as well). At 8:00 a.m. I called sister Joan, to wish her well on the day of her only daughter’s wedding. We managed small talk for a bit, but ended up both crying our eyes out before the call was ended. I so much wanted to be there, and it was obvious she wanted the same.

Cam showed me on the map how to find Hwy 132, and I loaded up my bike and headed off. Jean volunteered to stay with me until I got onto the right route (support person right to the end), and we did indeed find it easily –especially since we had more maps from the front office. I was really tickled, once she left me, to find there was a bike path on the opposite side of the highway which led the way past some construction and traffic obstacles I had been fretting about. I celebrated with an iced cappuccino from Tim Horton’s, and carried on for a perfect biking day. Scenery on the south side of the St Lawrence was good, especially in the sections where the Laurentian mountains were visible on the north side of the river, and the Appalachians on the south. At about 12:30 I passed a bride coming out of her home, so I cheered her out loud. That also cheered me up considerable. I kept looking at my watch and figuring out what would be going on in the Holland Marsh. Then I passed through the village of Saint-Roch-des-Aulnaies Moulin, and noticed a sign welcoming people to visit the church. I thought “why not”, knowing Cam was still behind me and not likely to be looking for me. It was a lovely building, and I sat down on the back pew. Music started playing and I was delighted to recognize Mozart’s “Ave Verum”. I thought it could be for a wedding, and then I glanced down at my watch. It was just 3:00 p.m.! I burst into tears all over again – the priest sitting at the back must have wondered what was going on. Anyway, I felt I celebrated Sarah and Reuben’s wedding in a very beautiful way. I hope they’ll approve.

The shoulders on 132 stopped about 20 km from my destination, but traffic for the most part wasn’t bad. The worst event came just as I started into Riviere Ouelle, as a bee managed to get between my face and sunglasses, and stung me twice before I got my glasses off. Luckily my eye is only slightly swollen; hopefully it won’t get worse during the night.

Cam arrived at the campsite just a bit later than I did; after he set up the camper we drove back down to the river to watch the sun set. A beautiful ending indeed.

Friday, August 26, 2005

Day 60 – Rest Day
Quebec City, QC

We all tried to sleep in, but didn’t make it much past 7:00 a.m. Cam made tea, then cooked bacon and eggs for us – finally Jean had a chance to get spoiled too. It was quite an exercise to pull everything out of the van, and decide what needed to go with me the rest of the way, and what could be returned to Orillia. I felt sorry for Cam, having to find space for everything.

Around 11:00 a.m. I headed up to the camp office (a KOA in St. Nicolas) to try to use the internet. I chose the photos I wanted to post, and finished up the blog entries on Word, then tried to connect. Forty-five minutes later I was getting more and more frustrated; I obviously was doing something wrong, but I couldn’t figure out what. I called Terry, who couldn’t really help me at that distance, so I finally gave up and just checked my emails using the camp computer. I headed back to the campsite where we had a quick lunch, then we went into the city to look for other internet solutions. Alas, again I had no luck. Sorry, folks; my blogs are going to be history before you actually get to read them.

I was pretty upset by this time, having wasted a good 3 hours of my “rest day” trying to update my blogs. So, we decided to head into Old Quebec to do some sightseeing. It took some time to get down there, but we had a wonderful time once we did. Cam parked near the Citadel, and then we meandered down streets that looked like they came straight out of old Europe until we found an affordable restaurant with outdoor tables. I tried tourtiere (not as good as Rosemarie’s) and sugar pie (not as good as the ones Mae brings back), while Jean and Cam had sole and shrimp (evidently delicious). We ended the evening by watching a street show put on by a young man and woman; they juggled flaming torches and knives in perfect time to their music, and thoroughly entertained a sizable crowd. We wandered back to the car via the ramparts, enjoying the lights of the city reflected in the St. Lawrence. Quite a magical evening for Jean’s last night with me.

Thursday, August 25, 2005

Day 59 – Distance: 121.6 km
Trois Rivieres to Quebec City, QC

Not a cloud in the sky; got the sun in my eye…that’s the kind of day we woke up to. The whippoorwill didn’t keep us awake at all last night; Jean and I both had a great night’s sleep. We got underway shortly after 8:00, and I got on my bike, back in Trois Rivieres, by 8:50 a.m. We soon arrived at the Sanctuaire Notre-Dame-du-Cap, which evidently is a pilgrimage for Catholics from around the world. We took a walk around the church, which was open, and felt the peace envelop us. Jean spent some more time walking around the grounds and gardens, which featured sculptures of the Stations of the Cross and a rosary bridge, while I started off again. I again totally fell in love with biking in Quebec; the bicycle lanes are incredible, and the villages and farms totally capture the joie de vivre that the French are renowned for. Jean found a charming picnic spot near Deschambeau, overlooking the St. Lawrence just as a freighter was passing, and where we were visited by a black cat (I fed it, so I don’t think there will be any bad vibes from it). In the afternoon I started encountering some hills, including several in a side trip through Donnacona (I won’t do that next time I come through). Jean and I met again in time for an ice cream cone (definitely cream, not milk), then we proceeded through Cap Rouge on our way to the bridges to the south side of the river. I must let you know there is an incredibly steep, long hill coming out of Cap Rouge; we had stopped at an information place (which wasn’t open) just before it, and I thought I might have a heart attack before it was over. I did have one foot uncleated, which made me feel better, in case I felt I had to walk up the rest of the way. However, I used my mom’s favourite expression when faced with a daunting job (roughly translated, it’s “no inanimate objects will be boss”), and I made it to the top. It took quite a while for the heart rate to settle down, though!

Jean stopped just before the Pont de Quebec and the Pont Pierre la Porte, and we decided I should pop the bike on the back of the van, since neither of us knew if I was allowed to bike on the bridge (we found out it’s ok on the Pont de Quebec), and we figured we might as well get lost together, if that was going to happen, on the way to the KOA campsite where we had arranged to meet Cam. We finally found our way there (yes, we did miss the turns a couple of times – I wasn’t very helpful, since I was too busy recognizing the campsite where I ended my first biking adventure in 2001, with Murray Cleland). Cam hasn’t arrived quite yet, so I’m taking advantage of the time to catch up my blog. Hopefully we’ll have a chance to see a bit of Quebec tonight, or if he’s too tired, we’ll wait until tomorrow. In any event, I’m REALLY looking forward to my first rest day in 8 days.

Addendum: Cam arrived around 7:00 p.m. and proceeded to set up his “pop up” camper. It takes a bit of time to do, but is really great when it’s set up. My side is double-bed width, complete with overhead light for night reading (I’m usually asleep before 10:00, so that’s not a huge issue, but still nice). We then headed for a restaurant just down the road, which Jean and I had noticed on coming in. It turned out to be really great, in a Caribbean atmosphere. We ate in a plastic-sided tent, with a propane heater keeping us warm (evenings are cool now), and lots of plants and fountains around. Evidently they do lots of weddings and big gatherings; their specialty is pig roasts!

Wednesday, August 24, 2005

Day 58 – Distance: 137.61 km
Mont St-Hilaire to Trois Rivieres, QC

It started out slow – I had a hard time summoning the energy to get going, especially since the wind was somewhat in my face. About 5 km along I spotted a Chocolaterie, and was sorely tempted to stop for a specialty coffee, but didn’t really feel I deserved one quite yet. However, I did get a couple of lovely photos, and a small box of chocolates for Jean, who I felt deserved them after the day she had endured yesterday. It was a cool morning, but the route was very scenic. The morning route was along the Richelieu River, and all the homes were immaculate, with well-tended gardens. Many were large, as were the farms I also passed. One was busy emptying a manure pit – I didn’t enjoy the smells much, and wondered what the people in the grand homes on the opposite side of the road were thinking. It felt very much like a European biking vacation, with the quaint villages along the way, complete (in cases) with broken up road that felt like cobblestone.

We just missed the 11:30 a.m. ferry, but I didn’t mind; it gave me a chance for a longer break. We made sandwiches to eat in the car, and reached the other side (at Sorel) about 12:20 p.m. The afternoon route started along Hwy 138 through Berthierville, but turned up along a route verte along a country road “less traveled” that went through St. Viateur, St. Berthelemy, St. Justin and Maskinonge, then back to Hwy 138 through Louiseville and Yamachiche before coming to Pointe du Lac. I was feeling much better by then, especially since the country roads had been along an escarpment which protected me from the wind. So, we thought we would add some kilometers to today, in order to shorten up tomorrow’s ride to Quebec City. Jean checked the campsite book, and found a site which sounded like it was fairly close to Hwy 138, so off we went. We managed to find our way (more or less) through Trois Rivieres, then Jean spotted the name of the road that the campsite was supposed to be off of. Since it was 5:10, we decided to pop my bike on the back of the van to see if we could locate the site. We had the GPS working by then, and so we set off. Well, it turns out there are a great many “Rue des Prairies” in this area, and the one we went to first was a residential street. We tried again, and again…and ended up just 19 km from Shawinigan. We thought perhaps the little boy from Shawinigan might have room for us at his home, but found another campsite before we got there. It’s actually lovely, set in trees, and is very quiet, so we enjoyed our fresh corn on the cob, salad and spaghetti in quiet solitude.

For the record, Quebec gets full marks for all the effort that has been put into making it a bicycle friendly province. Many cities have dedicated bike lanes, and the Routes Vertes, even when they are shared with traffic, are well marked with warnings that the road is shared. I’m looking forward to more biking holidays in this province for sure! People are also very friendly, even when they can’t speak English, and it’s fun trying to make ourselves understood.

I’m listening to a whippoorwill as I’m typing – it’s very charming now, but I kind of hope it doesn’t keep up its call all night…

Tuesday, August 23, 2005

Day 57 – Distance: 109.25 km
Pointe des Cascades to Mont St-Hilaire, QC

We had decided the night before that Jean and I would drive Chris and Kim back to Cornwall (giving me a half-day rest) so that Kim could catch a train to Toronto, and Chris could start biking west so as to make Gord’s life a little easier. However, when we got up in the morning, it seemed to make much more sense for me to start biking right away, and for Jean to catch up with me after she returned from Cornwall. I wasn’t too concerned with making my way through Montreal (south end), as I had very detailed instructions from other rides I have done. It was a great day; the ride along the lakeshore was beautiful with lots of large homes and quaint villages. Jean met up with me near Marche Atwater, where we had lunch at a café, then I carried on along the bike paths, past Place Jacques Cartier and on to the Jacques Cartier bridge. That certainly was a highlight of the day! It must be about 2 km long, right over the St. Lawrence River, and a wide bicycle path so it felt safe the whole time. Of course I stopped for at least one photo. Another fun, unexpected event was riding through St. Lambert, where friend Mae Cox comes from; I hadn’t realized I would be going through there, so my face totally broke out into smiles when I saw it.

I arrived at the next meeting spot Jean and I had agreed upon, and since she wasn’t there yet, I gave her a quick call (thankfully, our cell phones are working). Poor Jean had got totally lost after lunch; she never did find the Jacques Cartier bridge, and ended up driving along Hwy 20 (both directions) for many kilometers. She asked directions, but they weren’t very clear. I can certainly commiserate – Albert and I have got confused several times when trying to drive through Montreal. I was sorry I hadn’t showed her how to use the GPS program on my computer; I had thought of it in the morning, but there didn’t seem to be enough time. Too bad! In any event, she came to the name of a small town, and fortunately recognized it as being along our route. She finally caught up with me about 5 km from the campsite, at the same time as the threatening clouds cleared a bit. We were both certainly ready for the sherry party tonight! Jean cooked supper while I showered, and then we started to try to plan where Cam will join us. I’m going to try to ride for two more days, but that will be 8 days without a break, so we’ll see if I can do it.

Monday, August 22, 2005

Day 56 – Distance: 121.38 km
Morrisburg, ON to Pointe des Cascades, QC

Yes, I finally did it – I got through Ontario! It was another wonderful, wind-in-the-back day, and we thoroughly enjoyed all the bike paths and trails through Long Sault, and on to Cornwall. We did get a bit mixed up in Cornwall, as the bike path doesn’t meet the streets very easily; I should have just arranged to meet Jean after we were through Cornwall. Also, Kim in her typical haste totally missed the turnoff for the Long Sault Parkway, and we had to flag down a motorist to ask her to turn around. Luckily, the motorist was very understanding, and popped Kim’s bike in her back seat and drove her back. It turns out she’s a Dutch lady – cool, eh? At least now Kim understood why I fretted so much when she got too far ahead of me.

The wonderful bike trails continued in Quebec, and many times I thought we could be in Europe somewhere, with the old architecture of the buildings, bridges and canals (e.g. Lachine). Kim’s back tire was still giving trouble, and went flat about 5 km from our end point, but a very nice Frenchman helped us out. We found a campsite at Pointe des Cascades, very close to Hwy 338, which I need in order to continue my trek through Montreal tomorrow.

Since it was Jean’s birthday, we took her out for dinner (after some searching for a decent restaurant); it turned out not to be licenced, but we were allowed to bring our own wine in. Chris and Kim went out to buy some wine (a block or so away), and we had a very enjoyable evening. Certainly a novel birthday for Jean!

Sunday, August 21, 2005

Day 55 – Distance: 152.57 km
Kingston to Morrisburg, ON

A few sprinkles, and after that, an incredible day again. The wind was again in our back, and we made great time. I kept trying to keep up with Kim, because I was afraid she would miss a turn, but she told me not to worry. I did miss a few photo ops I would have enjoyed, but was glad to get such a good distance in. The towns along the way, and the drive along the river, are beautiful, and I want to do this section of the trip again. Maybe Monique will join me for a week next year. I think I could talk Jean into being our support vehicle driver…

We got into camp about 6:00 (we had some delays, because Kim’s back tire has a slow leak), and enjoyed the supper Jean had picked up. We were expecting Chris Dixon to join us (driven by his friend Gord), and we had some arranging to do with Cam as well. Chris was surprised (shocked) to find out how far we had got in the 3 days since he first arranged to join me, and Gord (when they arrived) asked which one of us he should shoot first. I also managed to chat by phone with friend Brian Brett, who had allowed Murray and me to camp on his front lawn when we came through in 2001. A good time to get reacquainted; we had hoped to meet up with him again, but he was busy with his father who completed a triathlon in Brockville that day (at age 77 – I hope I can do as well when I reach that age).

Saturday, August 20, 2005

Day 54 – Distance: 137.7 km
Colborne to Kingston, ON

A perfect day; I was so glad that Kim had a day with the wind in our back, overcast skies (no rain), and incredible scenery. I love Prince Edward County for biking; we also had great views before and after. The Glenora ferry was fun, and the Bloomfield bike store absolutely a riot. Of course, the first thing the gals there said when they saw Kim’s saddle was “are you hurting”, and of course Kim answered, “as a matter of fact, I am”. The co-owner is a woman, as are several of her staff, and she stated “this type of saddle just makes hamburger of our most precious asset”. I’m sure Stuart will be quite happy to pay for the new saddle she bought… I bought a new one there in 2001, and was amazed at the difference to our female anatomy.

Heather and Alec stayed with us until after lunch in Bloomfield, then we headed on to Picton, Adolphustown, etc.

We did see an osprey, and lots of familiar scenery from other biking trips I have made in the area; we’re camping in Kingston and are just about to go out for supper – so I’m signing off!

Back again, briefly – we went out to the Grizzly Grill in Kingston, and I tried ostrich. Very tasty, with shiitake mushrooms.

Not much fauna, except an osprey and a heron.

Friday, August 19, 2005

Day 53 – Distance: 94.95 km
Oshawa to Colborne, ON

We heard rain during the night, and unfortunately, it wasn’t over with by the time we were ready to leave. Kim and I started out by about 8:15, but we only made it as far as the campground gates. We were both already feeling chilled, and Kim had no rain pants, so her legs were soaked and cold. We phoned Jean to let her know how far we had (not) got, and waited until she, and the Adams, arrived with the vehicles. We talked about driving into Oshawa to try to buy some pants, but in the meantime, the weather cleared! Kim and I happily set off about 9:15, even though the skies were still overcast. We gradually got rid of our other rain gear, and totally enjoyed the ride. The winds, of course, were not in our favour, but the route was fabulous. This was the section I had decided to do again, even though I have ridden it twice before. It follows Lakeshore Road and Hwy 2 through Newcastle, Port Granby, Port Hope, Cobourg etc. We had great views of Lake Ontario, and admired the beautiful old homes in the towns along the way. I located many of the places I had stopped before, even though we didn’t stop this time. This was a rather “fast” tour compared with the other times I had done it. Monique used to call me the “bikerator” but I’m handing the title over the Kim. She sets a rather quick pace, and I was hard pressed to try to keep up with her. We also wanted to get as far as we could in view of the overcast skies; we didn’t know when they would open up again. After our picnic lunch in Port Hope with Jean and the Adams, we set off again; we soon passed a bike shop, so we decided to stop in to check for rain pants. They had none, so we set off again. After about 100 meters, Kim developed a flat tire! We looked at each other and debated whether we should tackle it ourselves, but both decided the short walk back to the bike store was much the smarter way to go! After Kim came out, though, I discovered that I had lost my sunglasses. Jean went back to the picnic area, and checked all around, but unfortunately was unable to find them. I do feel badly, as I had rather splurged when I bought them; from now on, the cheap ones will have to do.

We got as far as Colborne when the thunder and lightning started getting closer. We had hoped to get as far as Brighton, but decided to have supper in a little pub in Colborne, in hopes that the weather would clear. After a few beer and fish and chips, we left, but the rain did not, so we drove to Brighton to find a motel. Shortly after we arrived the power went off, so the proprietor came along with tea lights. Very cozy! We were looking forward to a little sherry party, but Alec and Heather opted out (they had slept very little because of the trains and traffic near Darlington), so Kim, Jean and I got comfy on our own. The shower was great, the electricity came back on, and we’re hoping the weather tomorrow will improve again.

Random event: playing leapfrog with a garbage truck – right through some of the nicest views.

Thursday, August 18, 2005

Day 52 – Distance: 104.14 km
Holland Marsh to Oshawa, ON

It was kind of tough to get going again, but fun too, especially since niece Sarah and sister-in-law Kim were riding with me. Sarah planned to ride for the day, while Kim is staying with me for several days. Goodbyes were hard, but at least the next portion of the trip is shorter, and I’ll be seeing friends along the way. Nory and Robin are planning to come to PEI on Labour Day weekend, so that’s something to look forward to.

Sarah led the way through the Holland Marsh, and on to Sharon etc. Roads were good, and the weather was fine, except that the wind was in the wrong direction again. I guess you can’t have everything. After climbing a tough hill in Mount Albert, we took a break, at which time Sarah admitted to having “wobbly” legs. We made sure she ate some extra food, in case she was “bonking”, but after some more hills and kilometers, she also started wheezing and not being able to breathe well. We decided the stress of preparing for her wedding in a week and a half was finally getting to her, so we took our time getting to Uxbridge, where we had a lovely lunch at a tearoom “Don on Main” (highly recommended), while we waited for Joan and Harm to come pick her up. Hopefully she took the rest of the day to relax and sleep.

Kim and I set off for the next leg of the journey, which was full of great countryside, very good roads, and not too much traffic. There were, however, still lots of hills, and still a strong wind to contend with. We were very pleased to reach Darlington Provincial Park by about 4:10; then came the challenge of finding our campsite! Heather and Alec Adams were meeting us; they had reserved the site, and eventually we did find them, as well as Jean, at the site waiting for us. We pitched the tent for Kim, showered, and got ready for a dinner out with Terry and Pat Hehn, and Debbie Trickey, who had driven from Orillia to meet us. It was quite a jovial group, and we all had a great time at the steak house recommended by the St. Johns. Good recommendation, Gary!

Wednesday, August 17, 2005

Day 51 – Rest Day
Holland Marsh, ON

This was a rest day with a difference – I was surrounded by family. I got up to have breakfast with Joan and Harm, and we were soon joined by Mom and Dad, who had also stayed overnight. I borrowed their car to pick up Nory, who had taken a day off work so she could spend it with me (sigh), and by the time we got back, after doing a bit of banking, Ellenor and Karen had arrived. Needless to say, chat was flowing, and time passed far too quickly. After a great lunch (complete with corn on the cob, brought along by Albert because I hadn’t had any yet this season and was craving it) prepared by Sarah, Karen and Ellenor headed back home, and I started my blogging. It’s tough to catch up on several days at a time, and even tougher when you have to sit by yourself doing it, knowing your family is upstairs waiting for you to get done so they can visit. You can imagine how upset I was when Mom and Dad came down to tell me they were leaving (before dinner) and I had been ignoring them for a couple of hours to do my computer work! At least Nory came down to visit me, and helped me with some photos.

I did eventually resurface, and was delighted when brother Rick appeared with his wife Joanne. Wayne had come over earlier with sons Liam and Evan, and after supper Stuart arrived with wife Kim and their children, Andrew and Claire. Leonard phoned, and of course I was staying with Joan, Harm and their children, Sarah, Jonathon and Matthew. Albert was there, as were Nory and Robin, so I felt totally surrounded by family. The dinner was perfect and so was the evening.

Tuesday, August 16, 2005

Day 50 – Distance: 69.05 km
Shelburne to Holland Marsh, ON

Well, it’s hard to believe things could get better, but this truly was the best day of this trip. I slept in until about 7:20, and got up for a healthy cereal and eggs breakfast. Chris, Hilda and Doug arrived about 8:30, and we all decided we liked the sound of the “fast” hills route suggested by Bob, the friend of the Cruickshank’s. We set off, again to a perfect temperature, and wind in our backs. We were fairly evenly matched, pace wise (or at least the others let me think so), and we were often able to ride two abreast so we could do a bit of chatting. The roads were paved, winding and only somewhat hilly, but with a few great downhills (Chris reached 72 km per hour), and some challenging climbs. I thought I should make up some of my mileage missed previously by climbing up one of the most challenging hills in Ontario, but fortunately Doug said he was willing to do the first leg of it only. They were about a km ahead of me by the time we reached that section, and I was trying to figure out what in the world had got into me for suggesting it! I think it was the headiness of the fast hills we had just come down.

We stopped for a little break in Hockley, at a microbrewery, so of course had to try some of their beer. So what if it was only 11:00 a.m.! We shared one can only, so felt quite safe to keep riding…. Shortly after we left, John Maxwell found us. The poor man had driven to Shelburne, along the route I had said we were planning to take, and then had driven back to Holland Marsh to Joan and Harm’s house. He had decided he would come back to Shelburne one more time, along the route indicated, and had just about given up when he saw four cyclists coming toward him. It was delightful to see him, but I felt badly he had had to work so hard to find us. I had assumed he wouldn’t be leaving Orillia until later (even in the afternoon), and so had not phoned him back with the exact route. Sorry, John! However, we did have a good chat, and John joined us for lunch in Beeton. We also managed to arrive just in time to see the steam train pull in from Tottenham. Another serendipitous moment.

After we left Beeton, I started to get serious about wanting to get to Holland Marsh. We got onto some county roads, and as we got closer and closer, I felt more and more like a horse coming into the home stretch. I had tears in my eyes by the time we finally reached the driveway, and the others allowed me to go ahead so I could greet Joan and daughter Sarah on my own. We all enjoyed drinks and snacks, then Harm brought the others back to Shelburne to pick up their vehicle. Meanwhile, my parents arrived from Brampton, and I got to cry a little more. Finally, after supper, Nory arrived with her friends Tina and Shaye on their way home from Stratford, and then also Robin. Later, we all sat around the big kitchen table and helped Sarah make wedding favours, which I truly enjoyed as I won’t be able to be at the wedding on the 27th. At least this way I could participate in a small way. My day was complete; my cup was full

Monday, August 15, 2005

Day 49 – Distance: 109.16 km
Owen Sound to Shelburne, ON

It was another glorious biking day, and Bob led me around Owen Sound to County Road 40 and on to Hwy 10. We had a great many hills to climb – I guess this area is rather (in)famous for them. I know in the past, when driving to and from Owen Sound, I have assessed the roads for biking, and wondered how the hills would be. I finally found out – there are a great many of them, but they’re rather fun, in that they are not super long, and are great fun to go down on the other side. Bob was great company, and stayed with me to Holland Centre, where he turned off to take the “rail trail” back to Owen Sound. Note that he had been doing the route all morning on his mountain bike – much more effort than I had to expend on my road bike! However, he was certainly up for the challenge.

Bob left about 10:30, and I took my time getting to Shelburne from there, as I knew Ruth and Bill Cruickshank (my Shelburne hosts) might not be home until later in the afternoon. Markdale and Flesherton were both lovely little villages, and I stopped for a late lunch in the latter (I had already eaten my bagel which I had prepared for lunch). I had a rather interesting cream of carrot and spinach (curried) soup. Not ideal on a warm day, perhaps, but I couldn’t resist the sound of it. Hwy 10 leveled out after Flesherton, but did get busier, so I was glad to take the route suggested by Bob, paralleling the highway, but getting off it. Again, the scenery was pastoral, and somehow familiar, and I sang as I cycled along. Life was good indeed, and I was glad to seize the moment.

Unfortunately (but not really), it was a little farther to the Cruickshank’s house than I thought, so I didn’t arrive there until about 4:00. Also, my map had different route and concession numbers than the road signs indicated, but it wasn’t really a problem. I was again royally treated, and enjoyed a roast beef dinner with all the summer fixings, including Howard Hamilton’s fruit salad for dessert. I don’t think I have to worry about wasting away any more – not when I’m fed this well by friends.

After supper, Bob, a cyclist friend of Ruth and Bill’s dropped by; he was very helpful in planning the route for the next day, going to Holland Marsh. Since the only changes were in the first part of the route, I hoped it wouldn’t be a problem for John Maxwell, who had called to say he was hoping to see me on the route, in order to wish me well. I was expecting 3 cycling friends to join me next day, and I wanted to make sure the route and distance would be worth their trip from Orillia.

I had the best sleep I’ve had in quite a while that night; the Cruickshank’s live in the country, and I was asleep even before I could hear the coyotes which they said often entertained them at night.

Sunday, August 14, 2005

Day 48 – Distance: 112.41
Tobermory to Owen Sound, ON

Since I ended yesterday’s blog at the ferry, I’ll let you know a bit about the Harbourside Motel. The situation was beautiful, with a lawn and chairs right outside our room looking over the harbour filled with big sail and motor yachts. The room was somewhat “dated”, and not even shampoo was included in the rather exorbitant price, but the second double bed was set into an alcove, so we each felt we had some privacy, not that we felt we needed it. We sat out on the lawn and drank sherry, and wondered how the rest of the world was faring.

Sunday morning dawned bright and favourable; I started it out with a cold shower (the control was out of kilter, and I couldn’t get warm water – Jean later was successful, fortunately). Jean was supposed to be having a restful morning, but got up anyway and made sure I got some food to eat before departing. Highway 6 has no shoulder, but traffic was very light, especially at first, and the wind was in my back. I arrived at Ferndale in good time, and had a delightful time over a coffee and blueberry muffin chatting with the owner of The Crossroads Café, who has had many a cyclist pass through his door, including the Sea to Sea group a few days earlier.

By this time traffic on Hwy 6 was getting a little heavier, and I was happy to be able to take the road to Lion’s Head, and then south to Wiarton. This road proved absolutely delightful, with hardly any traffic, and the kind of biking conditions I am used to training in. I felt on top of the world. Jean was planning to meet me in Wiarton, but discovered a great picnic spot about a kilometer out of town, right on Georgian Bay, with a swim area and picnic table. She flagged me down, and I was able to enjoy a great lunch followed by a swim. I was very glad to have cooled down when I saw the hill waiting for me before getting back onto Hwy 6! All in a day’s work, however. Soon after Wiarton, I cut off onto to the road toward Kemble, as suggested by the Knapps, and again had a super biking road to follow. When I was almost into Owen Sound, I was met by Riejanne and her husband, Anton, and a short while later, by Bob Knapp. After a tour of Riejanne’s beautiful gardens, we headed over to Bob and Marie’s house, where they were waiting with their daughter Melanie, and Jean. We had a great reunion; Jean left for Orillia shortly before supper, and then Paula Harron (from my January retreat group) came over with her husband and family. We had a delightful time swimming in the pond, and, after supper, walking through the trails and riding the “zipline” that Bob has constructed in their back property.

When Marie asked what the highlight of the trip was so far, I replied “being here”. It was so good to be that close to home and family, knowing that I would be seeing them in just a couple of days. All the organizing and planning was finally coming to fruition. Marie and Bob were great hosts, with Bob’s knowledge of the biking around the area (and all sorts of other things), and Marie’s words of wisdom to guide me. When I had been preparing for the trip, I had felt quite “scattered” as some of you will remember, and I emailed Marie for some of her guidance, which she sent, and which I printed out to read along the way when I needed. Yes, one day at a time!

Saturday, August 13, 2005

Day 47 – Distance: 93.41
Whitefish Falls to Tobermory, ON

Well, today made up for yesterday again. We got up about 6:30 a.m. to a clearing sky, and loons on the water. We chatted with the campers next to us; he’s a physiotherapist and gave me a few exercise pointers for my tingling fingers. He’s also hoping to cross the country by bike one day; he lives in Oregon now, but used to live on Manitoulin Island. He gave us the name of the editor of the Little Current newspaper, and told us to give him a call. Jean did when she got there, and a reporter arrived about the same time I did. We’re getting famous!

The first section of road was great; there was actually a shoulder from Birch Island to Little Current. Even when there was no shoulder, I was fine though, because the traffic was very light. After Manitouwaning, there were times when I wouldn’t see a car for five or ten minutes. I didn’t care when the wind was in my face (the road is quite winding); when I biked more slowly I could take time to enjoy the scenery. I decided on a biker adage, though: the views are best halfway up (or down) a hill! I don’t usually stop up or down hills, as I like to keep my momentum going, but I’ve missed some really good photo ops by not stopping! Hopefully I have them imprinted on my memory, as I can’t go back for them. Maybe as I get more relaxed, I’ll learn to stop more often. Jean is very good at making me relax; she’s giving me the TLC I realize now I really needed. She fixes meals, and makes me rest and stretch. I think by the time I leave Holland Marsh next Thursday, I’ll be ready to face the next leg of this adventure.

I was pleased with my time today; I started biking about 8:50 a.m. and got to the ferry at 3:00. We had a couple of nice rest stops, including a scenic lookout and lunch, so I didn’t feel I was pushing myself.

We’re waiting for the 5:50 ferry now to bring us over to Tobermory, where we have a motel room booked. I had made that arrangement before Cassie announced she was leaving the group, but I decided to stick with the plan. It will be good to get organized for the next couple of days, when I’ll be unsupported during the day, from the comfort of a room. I also have a fair bit of arranging to do to coordinate meeting people for the Toronto to Cornwall (approximately) part of the trip. It will be great to have the company, but it does take some phoning etc, which is difficult when there is no cell service (again, here at the ferry!).

Friday, August 12, 2005

Day 46 – Distance: 120.59 km
Blind River to Whitefish Falls, ON

Well, as wonderful as yesterday was, today was terrible! It rained a soft drizzle the whole day, and the wind was largely in my face, strong enough at times to make flags stand at attention. Traffic on Hwy 17 was fairly heavy all day, especially as I got closer to Sudbury. I was cold and soaked, and ready for my first break with Jean when she arrived around 10:00 a.m. We were going to try to meet at a picnic spot, which unfortunately was closed for repairs due to the small tornado experienced by the area on Tuesday, but ended up resting in the van in a private driveway! (I did see many trees down, including two onto a roof of a home along the way). We arranged to meet again at the Serpent River Trading Post, which I highly recommend to anyone traveling in this area. It’s more of an art gallery than trading post, and I wished I had lots of money so I could break rule #4 (no buying anything other than consumables, or necessities for the trip). Jean also said she came very close to buying herself a new coat after I left– I wish I had been there to encourage her! We met for lunch (rather late by that time) in Massey, about 70 km from my starting point. We lucked into a restaurant which other patrons told me was the best one in the north, the Dragonfly. We relaxed over some hot soup and bruschetta (sp?), and I had to agree. We had enough bruschetta to take along for supper, and the mushroom soup was rich and creamy.

Fortunately at that point, things got quite a lot better. I had heard of a route to Espanola that would take me off Hwy 17 and all those trucks spraying all over me. The road was a bit rough, preventing me from going very fast, but I didn’t mind – the rain had finally petered off, and there was practically no traffic. The scenery was also great – very pastoral. Jean and I met at a Tim Hortons in Espanola, where unfortunately we realized I had left my bright yellow vest back in Massey. I carried on along Hwy 6, while Jean went back for my vest. Hwy 6 was quite hilly, with absolutely no shoulder and lots of road cracks, but at least the weekend traffic was courteous. I got to the cutoff of the road to the campsite we had decided on before Jean, so I stretched while I waited for her. I was glad I had decided to load up the bike before going up the road, as it is incredibly hilly. However, the vistas from the tops of the hills were incredible, and Jean was delighted to recognize the road as one she and David had taken before for a picnic, right at the Bearskin Lodge (Willis Road, Whitefish Falls) where we are. We’re camping on a channel linking two lakes, and the camp owner stays on the other side. We had to ring a bell, and he came over by barge to take our money and give us the washroom key! I also had to go over with him in order to use the pay phone (no service again, as there are too many rocks around). When I got back from the phone, Jean had sherry and supper waiting. Just the thing to warm me up.

This also is a site I would recommend to anyone, especially in the cabins across the channel. We had a loon swim by us at supper time, and his call echoed around all the rocks. Breathtaking! Jean also said I missed a gorgeous sunset while I was showering (rather late tonight). Who’d have thunk it, after all that rain. It’s pitch dark now, but there’s a campfire across the water, and lights reflecting from the cabins. I think it’s time to say good night again.

Thursday, August 11, 2005

Day 45 – Distance: 132.79 km
Sault Ste Marie to Blind River, ON

Well, the first day of the rest of the trip was, in a word, wonderful. I wasn’t so sure when I first got up; I woke up with all sorts of things on my mind that I had to do. However, after breakfast, Jean came upstairs to my room with me and made me do some deep breathing to calm down. I was of course already a little teary because Albert was leaving soon, and the road ahead was unknown, but everything was great. We all left the Sault about 10:00 a.m., Albert and Adele in the car, Jean in the van, and I on my bike.

The day was sunny but not too hot; the wind was favourable most of the day, and the terrain was mostly flat. I felt the joy of biking again. Jean was wonderful as a support person; she would drive ahead and meet me with lunch, snacks etc. I had originally planned to bike only to Iron Bridge, but when we looked at the map and the schedule for the next two days, we knew it would be great if I could get to Blind River. This will hopefully allow me to get to Whitefish Falls tomorrow, and then the ride to South Baymouth will be very doable on Saturday. It may even feel like a partial rest day, which would be great in view of the fact that I have myself riding six days in a row – again! However, I have to confess it feels good to only worry about whether I can do it, and not whether other riders with me are able to keep up the pace (sorry, Cassie – I’m sure you will also enjoy going your own pace when you start riding again). We enjoyed some sherry before going into town for dinner (and are actually having a bit more now before we go to sleep).

The last bit of road today was particularly lovely as I rode alongside the Mississagi River for several kilometers. There were 3 geese standing facing the water at one point; they didn’t move as I passed. We have lots of geese in Orillia, but they seem out of place there. These looked like they belonged.

We’re both sleeping in the van tonight; we’ll see how we get along as bed partners…
Good night!

By the way, another neat thing that happened this morning was that a lady who was having breakfast next to us asked a bit about the bike ride, and ended up donating $40 to the St. James Anglican Church 175 year celebrations! Thank you, Ms McKenzie.

Route from Shelburne to Holland Marsh

For those who have expressed an interest, here is the proposed bike route from the home of Bill and Ruth Cruikshank, Shelburne on Tuesday, August 16, to the home of Harm and Joan Horlings, near Holland Marsh:

Leave 515086 2nd Line of Amaranthe (4 1/2 km south of Hwy 89 at Shelburne)
South on 2nd Line to 20th Sideroad
Left (east) on 20th Sideroad through Mono Centre and Relessey to Hwy 50
Right (south) on Hwy 50 to Loretto (8th Line)
Left (east) on 8th Line to Hwy 27
Right (south) on Hwy 27 to Hwy 88 at Bond Head
Left (east) on Hwy 88 to 5th Sideroad
Right (south) on 5th Sideroad to 5th Line
Left (east) briefly on 5th Line, then before you cross Hwy 400, turn right again.
This road takes a sharp right, but Joan and Harm's driveway is to the left. You will see their house at the end of a long, long driveway.

I hope I have the directions right; please get a detailed map of Eastern Ontario, and you will see all the roads and concessions on it.
My cell number is 705-323-7486 in case you need it.

Adele Sparkles

A Superior Sunset

Winnie and Me

Let's all dream

A National Hero

Giant Mosquito in Upsala

Map

If you want to check out my progress on a map of Canada, check out this website:

www.tjhehn.ca

Wednesday, August 10, 2005

Day 44 – Rest Day
Sault Ste Marie, ON

Such a treat, being in a real bed…although I didn’t really sleep any better than in my tent. It’s still nice to feel civilized again, though. We met Jean for breakfast in the hotel, then she and I went back up to her room to plan the rest of the day. When I was in the bathroom, Cassie announced her decision that she would like to do the rest of the trip on her own. I mention my location, as that’s where I was when we first met her and I invited her to join us (different campground, of course). I’m going to get paranoid about bathrooms! She had decided to take a bus to Toronto, and start biking again from there.

We chatted about her thoughts, then I invited her to take the rest of the day to do some fact finding before making her final decision; Jean suggested she wait at least until we reach the Owen Sound to make the bus trip more affordable.

Jean, Albert and I then headed out to look after my laundry etc., and then they went out to take a boat tour of the locks, while I looked after my internet etc.

Cassie checked out prices, etc, and has now confirmed that she will indeed take the bus to Toronto. I guess I’m on my own again, with my driver, as the original trip had been planned. Interesting, the twists life’s road takes!

I’m now off to check out the hotel’s pool (after some more champagne – I’ve been emailing people and having to apologize for my typing errors) with Albert and Jean, and then we’ll go for supper.

Here’s to the new chapter in the trip.

Love to you all!

Tuesday, August 9, 2005

Day 43 – Distance: 56.54 km
Montreal River to Sault Ste Marie, ON

What a night! The wind was howling in full force, and we were afraid our tents would blow away. It was a warm night, and the way my tent was situated, I didn’t get any breeze, which seems strange in view of the strong wind. I pulled back the fly of the tent, but since there was lightning, I was afraid of rain. After listening to the wind, and waves of Lake Superior crashing, until 2:00 in the morning, I figured it was time to take action. I used the earplugs Adele had given me, took a pill to help me sleep, and did some deep breathing. About that time the wind died down considerably as well. Finally I was able to drop off, but 6:30 arrived far too quickly. I had hoped to get out really early so we could get to the Sault early, but I gave up on that notion. I finally left about 8:30, and started climbing again. The plus was that the day was overcast, and the wind had calmed down to practically nothing.

Because I knew that I would not be biking the whole day, but that Cassie and Adele would be picking me up at noon, I did not feel pushed to ride hard. However, after about 30 km, the road started leveling out, and the wind even felt like it was helping me a bit. Finally I remembered why I like biking. I did stop for about half an hour at the Agawa Indian Craft store, hoping to find something suitable for an anniversary gift (unfortunately I didn’t), and then carried on. After the van arrived, all three of us drove another 20 km or so, and then Cassie loaded up her bike and started riding. Meanwhile, Adele and I headed for the Quality Inn in the Sault. Luckily they had a wheelchair, and we were able to move Adele much more comfortably. However, at the same time, a big thunderstorm started, and I worried about Cassie on her bike. So I left Adele in the care of the hotel staff, and headed back to pick her up. The rain and lightning had just started where she was, so she was very glad to see me.

Albert and Jean were somewhat delayed in arriving (that was okay, as it gave me time to shower), because of the same thunderstorm. It was huge where they were; Jean said the trees were bent over sideways in the wind, and the rains were pouring down, to the extent that traffic completely stopped. They even saw a house, which evidently had been struck by lightning, engulfed in flames .

The rest of the day was lovely – we had the champagne that Albert brought, and I got a lovely gold chain with a bicycle charm on it for a 19th anniversary gift. We all had a delicious dinner, in spite of the fact that the first three types of white wine that Albert chose were unavailable because they were not chilled! The poor server was quite embarrassed to keep coming back. The restaurant was right on the water, near the locks, so that made it special.

Monday, August 8, 2005

Day 42 – Distance: 108.8 km
Wawa to Montreal River, ON

Relentless wind and relentless sun! I decided this day made up for the riding day I took yesterday, when biking would have been easy. Today’s ride went through the spectacular scenery of Lake Superior Provincial Park, and thus was quite hilly. I was pleased that the grades were longer than and not as steep as I had anticipated, but the wind was strong in my face for most of the day. I often had to pedal downhill, just to keep going at 20 kph. We had agreed that Cassie and Adele would meet me for lunch (which didn’t happen), and that Cassie would take over biking at 2:00 p.m. They met up with me at 2:15, and Cassie explained she had had to look after many “nursing duties”, which had of course taken longer than we had anticipated. I was disappointed that they had not been able to enjoy Katherine’s Cove with me, but evidently they had enjoyed the scenery at Old Woman Bay instead. Since I only had about 20 km to go to Montreal River, which was where we had anticipated spending the night, Cassie said she would carry on with the driving if I wanted to complete the day. Foolishly, I agreed – it was a very tough last 20 km! At the end of the ride, there was a 2 km long hill, with two big bends in the road, but I had to brake down most of it due to wind gusts. Hopefully the wind will cooperate for us tomorrow! Actually, I bet it will, because Cassie is hoping to ride a big portion tomorrow, and she always has better luck with winds than I do. Our plan is that I will leave as early as possible in the morning, then Cassie will take over around 11:00. We’ll head to the hotel by 2:00 pm if possible, because we’re all really looking forward to a day and a half of civilization.

Tonight we’ve had a bonfire, and we’re taking pictures of a sunset over Lake Superior. We’ve roasted marshmallows and had sparklers. Quite an end to the “camping” part of Adele’s trip.

Sunday, August 7, 2005

Day 41 – Reorganizing Day

After a somewhat sleepless night (for Adele and me), I got up and phoned Albert. I knew he had been out the night before, so hadn’t tried then. I filled him in on the situation; I felt sorry for him, as he had just got out of bed and didn’t have a clear head quite yet. I asked him to try to find someone to come down to Sault Ste Marie with him to drive the van back; I suggested he tell the choir at St. James’, because I knew someone would come up with a good idea. I then got some maps out, to outline the route we would take, especially through Ontario, and to figure out how many kilometers we had to go and how long it would take us. I was rather dismayed to figure out that we would still have about 3,250 km to go after Sault Ste Marie.

By 12:30 p.m., while still trying to work things out, I got a phone call back from Albert. He had great news! Two St. James’ choir members are coming to our rescue. Jean Kemp is able to support us until Sunday night, August 14th, and George Northrop will take over after that, until the time Cam Russell was taking over anyway. You can’t believe the relief I felt. I know Cassie was disappointed, as she was starting to look forward to the adventure of going “loaded”, but I had become quite fearful of being able to complete the trip on time, and all the other details that I knew would have to be worked out. Suddenly, I could keep all the clothes I had with me, all the toiletries, and all the other things I had been fussing about during the night (silly, the things you think about when you can’t sleep).

After such an emotional roller coaster, we decided we would just drive to Wawa, which is where we would have been biking today. I felt some regret as I saw how flat the terrain was and that the wind would have been in my back, but I felt drained, physically and mentally. I had made many phone calls, to Albert and Nory, trying to work out details, and I needed to rest. We stopped at the Winnie the Pooh statue in White River, and at the big Canada Goose in Wawa, then found a campsite. After quickly setting up, we went into Wawa for dinner, carrying Adele in between us. More phone calls followed, then I went to bed, in hopes of a good sleep so I could get up early to do the first shift of biking in the morning.

Fauna notes: While in the campground, a fox came right over to us – obviously we didn’t try to touch him! Then, when we were driving out of Marathon, we saw a bear! Needless to say, I was again glad I was in the van and not on my bike.

Saturday, August 6, 2005

Day 40 – Distance: 76.63 km
Terrace Bay to Marathon, ON

The day started out well enough; Cassie had told me she wanted to sleep in, so I got myself off by about 7:50 a.m. I knew it would be a long day, and that I might not make it all the way to White Lake Provincial Park, but I really wanted to try to stick to the schedule, and to bike all the way.

The day started out cool, with just a gentle breeze. However, by 10:00 a.m., the wind definitely picked up, and not in my favour! I stopped at a few places, and managed to reach a Petro-Can station just before Marathon by about 1:00 p.m. I phoned Albert, then went inside to get out of the wind, and get a coffee, as I noticed I was feeling a bit shaky and shivery. While inside, I noticed the van drive by. I had tried to keep my bike visible, but it’s hard to do! In any event, I used the pay phone, and luckily, Adele’s phone had service. When she and Cassie got back, I was surprised to see Adele limping, with one sandal and one running shoe on! She had gone for a hike on the trail at Aguasabon Falls, and though she had been very careful, her foot had slid out from under her, and she went down. She must have gone over on her ankle which was now all swollen. She managed to drive to where Cassie was biking, and the two of them were actually headed to Marathon to find the hospital for an X-ray. Adele opted to have lunch first before going to the hospital, and I decided I should put the bike on the car as well, in order to stick with the group. We all know how long emergency rooms can make you wait, and I was quite sure I couldn’t bike for another 4 hours in that wind. It’s really the most decisive factor for having a good day or a bad one!

Adele also felt she needed to contact her medical insurance company before going to Emerge, so by the time we actually got her there, it was close to 3:00 p.m. Cassie and I left her there, and found a campsite (after some searching). We set up our tents, then came back to the hospital. That’s where I am now; Adele has had her X-ray, but we don’t know the results yet.

I’m finishing this two days later, and I’m sure many of you have heard the results. Adele broke her ankle and tore the ligaments around it, and the doctor pronounced that the trip was over for her. No driving allowed, or weight bearing. Because of her upper body problems, she can’t use crutches, so Cassie and I had to lift her into the van. Luckily, she’s not very heavy!

Cassie and I decided a good dinner with wine was necessary so that we could figure out what would happen next. We decided we would carry on, going “fully loaded”. I commented on the fact that I had finally come to realize that I wanted to be supported, and here I was going to be going loaded after all. We knew we would have support for at least half the trip anyway, with the various people who would be joining us, plus we had arranged places to stay for almost a week, so we felt confident that we could do it.

Friday, August 5, 2005

Day 39 – Distance: 107.73 km
Nipigon to Terrace Bay, ON

Well, it was a biker’s dream day, at least for the most part. Wind was often in our back, shoulders were smooth and often wide, the sun was shining, and the scenery was spectacular. Every tough uphill had a correspondingly fast downhill. We had to watch for wind tunnels, but that was okay. At Rossport, we got off our bikes, and ventured down to the water to at least get our feet wet in Lake Superior.

We’re now into what I call the Superior route, which I remember from road trips taken with my parents, and Tante Maaike and Omke Jurgen from Holland. I would never have believed then that I would actually be trying to bicycle those same hills now! Today the hills were tough, but doable, especially with the shoulders being wide and smooth. The next few days will be even more challenging for us; tomorrow’s route is planned to be a relatively long one, but I hope we can make it. I have set up a schedule that we need to stick to for the next couple of weeks, since we now have “bookings” in Sault Ste. Marie (Aug 9 & 10), Owen Sound (Aug 14), Shelburne (Aug 15) and Holland Marsh (Aug 16 & 17). After that it’s still a bit up in the air, but I’ll try to nail it down soon, because I know Cassie’s relatives are looking forward to seeing her too, in Ottawa.

We’re staying in a campsite next to the Aguasabon Falls – we had the opportunity to walk over to see them after supper. I know Adele will surely enjoy herself tomorrow morning, exploring the trails after we have set off. It’s nice when the route is simple, and we know approximately where we are going; she can take her time, and just meet up with us in mid-afternoon.

In case you're worrying, I have taken to making sure I have something to eat every time I stop for a drink. That way I'm sure I will get enough calories during the day, even if I don't feel like eating when I finish.

Thursday, August 4, 2005

Day 38 – Distance: 96.55 km
Thunder Bay to Nipigon

We awakened to rain, with the result that we didn’t really get moving too quickly. We decided a quick breakfast en route (we planned to drive to the Terry Fox monument and leave from there) would be in order, but then ended up at a Husky station, where smoking is still allowed! I was parking the car, or I would have vetoed the location, but the others were too polite to walk out. Oh well, at least now I appreciate even more the no-smoking policy in Orillia!

We drove to the monument, and were moved to tears again at the courage and effort put out by Terry Fox. I wasn’t feeling particularly energetic, but figured if he could run a marathon a day, I could at least get on my bike and get going. Almost immediately after leaving (at 10:30 a.m.) we ran into construction. The gravel was terrible to ride on, but the workers allowed us to ride ahead of the traffic, or on the opposite lane, so that part of the ride was actually not too bad. The wind, unfortunately, was strong and capricious – or maybe it was just that the road twisted and turned quite a bit. In any event, it almost blew me off the road a couple of times. Not fun! The road had very bad shoulders, and lots of road cracks and snakes, but hopefully it will improve as we head further east. We met a couple of bikers who are traveling “loaded” from Calgary to Toronto. They had horror stories of broken spokes, tires, and of having to rent a car to get a bike repaired. The more I hear stories like that, the gladder I am that I have Adele and the support van. I know I have dreamed of doing the trip “loaded” also, but I think I’m coming to my senses finally.

We stopped at a campsite 5 km west of Nipigon, Stillwater RV Park. Our two young friends, who are biking across the country “loaded”, also stopped here. I don’t think I have mentioned them yet; Kyle and Graham are both about 23, and have just finished school. They’re taking a slightly different route after the Sault, but I think we may see quite a lot of them before then. We have stayed (unplanned) at the same campsite 3 nights now, with the exception of Thunder Bay, where they stayed with friends.

It’s only 8:30, but I’m feeling quite tired tonight. I haven’t been particularly hungry, but am enjoying some of Adele’s yogourt, and then will head to bed. I was planning to do some more route planning, but that will have to wait until tomorrow.

Wednesday, August 3, 2005

Day 37 – Rest Day
Kakebeka Falls/Thunder Bay, ON

Mmm, sleeping in until 8:00 a.m.! A morning shower! Funny the little things that can make one happy. I started out to set out the route for the next few weeks, but found it much more difficult than I expected. I went up to the camp office to do some of the internet stuff, but soon ran out of time, so we headed out to the home of Hank and Rose Kaucharik. What a lovely time we had, chatting over a beautifully laid out lunch of sandwiches, fresh crudités, and topped off by a slice of yesterday’s birthday cake. Happy 80th, Hank!

Next we headed to a bike store to drop off my bike for its “checkup”, then we dropped Adele off for her massage therapy. Cassie and I worked some more on the bike route and schedule through Ontario, which still isn’t quite finished, then we picked up my bike and had some supper. Basically, a fairly restful day, which is perfect for relieving muscles. I tried very hard not to plan another six-day stint without a rest day, but that would have meant meeting Albert in Montreal River, rather than Sault Ste Marie, and the latter seemed to offer more potential for a good rest day. So, I promised I would try not to push myself too much each day, but to actually take the van at the end of each day if necessary in order to meet our deadlines. I’ve heard a lot about the hills around Thunder Bay, and of course have seen them for myself several times by car. I’m not looking forward to them, but will be delighted to have them over with. Fortunately, the scenery is spectacular, so that should make the effort a little more worthwhile.

I’m going to check emails now, so will say “adieu” until the next time I get internet access. Thank you all for emails I get; I try to answer them, but please forgive me if I can’t answer them all. I really do appreciate them.

Cows Near Dryden

Some Sheep for Nory

White Pelican over Red River

Space ship? or Solar car?

Tuesday, August 2, 2005

Day 36 – Distance: 113.63 km
Distance to date: 3,248 km

Have I told you I don’t do well in heat? Humidity? Wind in the face? Transports passing logging trucks passing little ol’ me? I guess you can figure out what kind of day it was. Actually, it wasn’t all bad at all, but the wind did play a big factor in slowing me down. The first section of road was fairly flat, but not well maintained, but within about 30 km it improved greatly. We had to stop for some bridge construction at that point, with traffic in both directions stopped, and I got to chat with a couple of gentlemen on motorcycles. They were from the Kingston area, and were visiting a son in Ignace. There were no further restaurants or gas stations until Shadaqua, which was 75 km from where we started, so we were out of water by the time we got there. I kept looking for a place to stop for a picnic, or wet my shirt to cool off, but alas, there were none. Needless to say, I took my time over lunch – I made some phone calls so I could sit inside longer.

Just for the record, this was the first day Cassie was ahead of me all day. Very soon after we started out, she passed me, saying “I really want to get to Thunder Bay today”. Since I also stopped to make another phone call at the first booth I could find (I didn’t know if Albert was going to be around for the day or not, and wanted him to get me some stuff), she outstripped me totally. I caught up at the bridge, but I stayed at the back of the line, whereas she was at the front. When I finally got to the campsite, she and Adele were enjoying the hot tub, and I can tell you, I joined them immediately. What a treat at the end of a tiring day. Our campsite, which is called “Happy Land”, is lovely, and we were able to do our laundry while eating supper. All the comforts of home.

We went out for an ice cream cone after supper (almost 9:00 pm by now), and I called Tony Kaucharik’s (a co-worker) parents, as I threatened him I would. They have invited us for lunch tomorrow – isn’t that great? I’ll get to hear all about what kind of a kid he was.

Rant: Adele’s cell phone works here, but mine says “no service”. I can’t even retrieve messages!

Emotional note: I tried to sing some of the words to the wedding song Nory danced with me at her wedding, "Did you ever know that you're my hero". I found myself in tears before I got to the end of the first line. I guess even heroes have weak times - I know I've had a lot of them lately. I'll be so glad to see relatives and friends. There's a rumour afoot that some people may try to ride with me when I'm close to Springdale, where we'll be staying with my sister Joan. We're hoping to be there by the evening of August 16th, and it would be SO great to see anyone who can come. I'm working on the exact route, and will try to let interested parties know as soon as I know. Write me if you have ideas. Unfortunately I can't access my email very often, but I'll be in Sault Ste Marie on the evening of the 9th, and should be able to check on the 10th, if not sooner.

Monday, August 1, 2005

Day 35 – Distance: 109.93 km
Ignace to Upsala, ON

It was a perfect biking day – warm, but with a bit of a breeze in the back. The terrain was again quite flat, and traffic was light. We actually ate breakfast at a restaurant, and I left about 9:00 am, Cassie having opted to get her clothes dried, since the night air didn’t do it the night before. I made it English Bay by 11:40 and popped into a local restaurant, where the owner immediately grabbed my water bottles and filled them for me. What a sweetheart! It was the first time in quite a while that I actually felt an appetite for something on the menu, so I was happy to indulge. Maybe that’s why the rest of the day went so well, biking wise, also. I made to Upsala by 3:30, but then found out the time had changed again, so it was really 4:30. I had to wait for the others, who discovered there is actually another campsite in town, but eventually we found each other and spent some time ironing out communication problems, especially when cell service is non-existent. We’re going to invest in some orange plastic ribbon so we can let the others know where we are, rather than standing on the side of the road in the blistering sun (which I didn’t do – I don’t tolerate sun very well, as lots of you know).

Tomorrow we get to Thunder Bay – we’ve booked a campsite near Kakabeka Falls, so we’ll have to drive into the city for things we need, but we may move for Wednesday night. We’ll see.

Highlight of the day – a lovely swim in a tiny lake by the highway. Adele discovered it first, and maneuvered the van to it. It had formerly been a picnic site, but I guess it was abandoned, so the road people put up a bit of a roadblock to limit access. However, she was not to be deterred, and when we got there, we all enjoyed cooling off in the very brown water – all the water in this area seems to be loaded with iron.